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Buenos Aires will not let you come down

The city as a nervous system: the siren, the narrow pavement, dinner at eleven.

Buenos Aires is brilliant and it is also a stimulant. Sirens, narrow pavements, dinner at eleven, the café that is not a café but an office with loud music. If you arrived from elsewhere, the city makes you fall in love and never lets you land.

If you live here, your body got used to a baseline of alertness that no longer registers as alertness: it is simply what being awake feels like. Coming down is not betraying the city or becoming slow. It is dropping the habit of confusing porteño pace with personal virtue.

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